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Make sure you are grounded and use a GOOD lightning arrester system. 

Here is what I did in addition to Surge Protected Outlets on every thing.

Introduction

I live in a great place for an antenna, on top of a hill. We have acreage, horses and plenty of electric fence wire. So it is not IF we get hit by lightning but WHEN. So I have taken a multi layer approach to lightning protection. It may be a little more expensive and time consuming to do BUT when lightning is hitting all around it IS worth every effort. After all my station and yours too, represents a great deal of effort and I don't want it BLOWN UP!

Multi-Level Protection

Below is what I implemented to deter lightning from damaging my station. But first I must explain that at the top of my mast there is SPARK GAP  from my long wire giving lightning a easy  direct path to the mast and the copper wire ( at least stranded #4 ). The wire follows my coax down the mast. (but on the opposite side) Periodically I have a ground clamp securing this wire to the mast. ( just before each mast joint)

  The far left shows my second lightning arrestor. Basically it is a "T" with a barrel that has a third PL259 connected to it. The PL259 houses a "Gas Filled Spark Gap" Lightning does not like inductance, that is why there is a coil of coax prior to and after this discharge point. The first one is at the bottom of the mast prior to my home made lightning arrestor. The purpose if it is to encourage the lightning to take the Spark Gap Path from the long wire directly down the mast's ground wire. The second coax coil is to encourage the lightning to take the first alternate path to the second separate ground rod that is directly connected to the "T". There is a third ground point inside the station (see my vintage station page) This is at my antenna switch that selects antenna or dummy load, That switch also contains a "PL256 with a "Gas Filled Spark Gap" The jacketed #4 stranded wire shown in the lower left of the switch box goes to a third ground rod (directly as possible)

When lightning strikes a given point and taken to ground by a ground rod, it will momentarily electrically elevate the ground area and the ground rod. Thus multiple separated ground rods help "Bleed" this voltage down to a more manageable level. If I sustain a large direct hit at lease I did my best and the insurance company will get a call IF necessary.

THE  CLAMP IS ATTACHED TO THE END OF THE GROUND ROD BY THE ZINC PLATED SECTION

I used a V8 bottle to make a rain cover. There are two slits in the bottle from the mouth to below the

neck of the bottle and a hole for the cable (see Right picture) when you squeeze it will open up.

If you hit a BIG rock and get the ground rod stuck (like I did) put in another one a short distance away

(to miss the rock) and attach them together.

The bronze ground clamp is a NEER # 41409 form Lowe's or an electrical supply house (Take a picture with you)

The Gas Filled Spark Gap is from DigiKey. As my station is only 200 Watt Max, I use a 230V one # 495-1471-ND

If you run a higher power you may want one that is a higher voltage rating , over 500V

Drill a 1/16" hole at the end of the PL256, as shown. Then put heat shrink tubing on as shown.

Insert it into the connector, clip and feed the remaining end thru the 1/16" hole then solder.

(buff the area around the hole  with a fine grit paper first, to make soldering with a large wattage iron easier)

Two aternate ways of attaching the "T" to the Ground Clamp.

Snug up the screws to clamp the PL259 to the Ground Clamp.

But DO NOT over tighten and warp the connector.

Comming Soon: A simple tester for the Gas Spark Gaps